Here are few of my experiences with Kokam 70 Ah pouch cells. Along the way I spent countless hours thinking about cell-clamping and other issues. Final pack turned out pretty good and has now worked for almost one year.
First and most important thing to remember:
!!! TAPE SIDES WITH KAPTON-TAPE !!!
and once again:
!!! TAPE SIDES WITH KAPTON-TAPE !!!
Belive me – they WILL leak if you do not tape them and allow them to contact other cells.
It seems that they have conductive foil left after cutting process at the factory. They will conduct electricity from sides when stacked together. And if you are using aluminum as your battery case material, disaster is ready … I ruined few 70 Ah cells and learned this the hard way.
Kapton-tape applied along the sides of the cells:

Second thing to remember -
!! KEEP THEM AT THEIR PACKING-BOXES AS LONG AS YOU CAN !!
Why ? Because they are very fragile to bending. Be extra careful when handling them. I had one cell ruined only by showing it to visitors at the workshop. Basically the cell was taken from it’s box, displayed to some visitors and put back to it’s box. And after few such “take from box, display, put back to box” events I discoverd that it had a hole in one corner. It seems that foil will very easily break if not handled extra carefully. So I recommend taking them from their box, taping them with Kapton-tape and then directly putting them to their final location at battery-box.
These unfortunate events happened while I was building 2 Kokam battery-packs for 2 different motorbikes – a Husqwarna Supermoto with about 5.2 kWh battery and a Cagiva Freccia (eCagiva) with 5.4 kWh battery. Both of them turned out fine and have quite good performance. They have Agni 95R DC-motors and Kelly DC-controllers. eCagiva has slightly more power with KDHE-series controller capable of 650A/120V.
Final version of cell clamping had Delrin (POM) clamping system with 4 mm stainless steel threaded rods and 3 mm Aluminum connectors. System doesn’t need any holes to be drilled to the cell tabs. Disadvantage is that it takes more space from between the tabs. Here is one picture of almost last version (last version had that welded clamping replaced with 3D printed ABS-plastic part):
Here is last version, with 3D printed ABS-plastic parts replacing those welded parts:
Those ABS-parts keep those stainless steel metal-parts from rising upwards when clamping is tightened with screws. Clamping force is distributed quite evenly and clamping seems to be adequate. This method does not need any holes to cell tabs. Clamping force is generated with 4 mm stainless steel threaded rod and screws.
Here is one CAD-shot from Alibre showing basic mechanics with aluminum tabs for connecting 50-70 mm2 high-power cable;

Aluminum is 3 mm and was water-cutted. Delrin is 6/12 mm and was cut with CNC-machine.
Each cell was taped with very thin 100 mm wide 3M double-sided tape:
Tape roll is 100 mm wide:
Here is the finished eCagiva battery-box:
Wires are extra-fine thread high-quality silicone measurement cable. One cable connects to between 2 cells connects. BMS is conected to these cables.
Here are few shots showing actual bikes;
eSuperMoto has Agni 95R at the back-fork. We did some FEA-analysis for powers involved and this 10 mm Aluminum welded motor-stand seemed to withstand those forces well. It of cource adds a bit unsprung mass to back-fork but as it’s very near to “hinge-point” of the fork it does not affect so much (hopefully)…

BMS and controller boxes visible. Controller-box is at the front, BMS-box is between 2 battery-boxes:

eSupermoto “almost ready to run”. 1 battery-box at each side. Controller and BMS at the center. CycleAnalyst as current-meter.

eCagiva at initial testings at local motorbike tuning-shop dynamometer:

First discharge tests were done with a 3-4 kW load. We replaced Agnimotor directly with DIY load-resistor and controlled discharge rate directly by twisting throttle
Here is the load we used:
That’s it. Feel free to contact me if you want some more information and/or CAD-drawings of those components described above.
Few more pictures can be seen from: http://www.flickr.com/photos/yty/sets/72157628965069775/with/6735499795











Hi Henry,
We are a team of students building an electric car for our college.
I came across your blog while looking for help for packaging Kokam batteries, and had some questions.
Also, do the cells heat up a lot during use ? We are using a similar configuration (Agni 95R motors + Kelly controllers) and cell damage due to overheating is a concern.
Since the Kokam cells expand while discharging, do you need to apply a clamping force to the cells in the container when you put them inside ? We are using these cells for the first time, and are worried about damaging them, more so since the cells seem to be very delicate and prone to damage while handling, do you have any suggestions for us ? We would to have a better idea of the packaging, so, if possible, could you email the CADs of the battery container and its components ?
Thanks,
Sameep
sameep.sanjeeva@iitbracing.org
By: Sameep on February 21, 2012
at 10:51
Hi Sameep,
I have not noticed any heating during my use. I pull only about 300-400A / peak from these cells and only during a very short time. I just sent you my CAD-drawings by e-mail.
Good luck for your conversion – project !
By: randomev on February 21, 2012
at 13:49
Hi Henry,
I am from the same racing team as Sameep’s. We have a few questions. It would be great if you could answer these for us.
1-Why have you used the 3M double sided tape on the cell walls? Is it for heat transfer or electrical insulation?
2-Does the cell leak from the centre wall? Is it fine if we have a copper plate touching the cell wall and connected to cooling fins on battery box exterior?
3-Can we make hole in the cell tabs? Which is better-clamping or bolting? In case of bolting what should be the material of the nut and bolt?
4-Did you measure the maximum temperature attained of the cells?
5-What is the internal resistance of the cells used? and do you have any figures of the thermal conductivities of the cell surface?
Thanks,
Saurabh Mishra
saurabh.mishra@iitbracing.org
By: Saurabh on April 18, 2012
at 11:22
Hello Saurabh,
1) I have used double-sided tape so that cells can’t move. It is necessary to keep cells in place regarding each other. If one cell can move and other can not, that movement will eventually puncture the cell from near the tabs where they are keeped together anyway.
2) I assume you mean between tabs or from that side where tabs are. I noticed that also there was leftover aluminium visible so yes, they will conduct also from there -> they require Kapton tape on 3 sides. Only side that does not need Kapton is “bottom”, eg. opposite side to tabs.
3) Yes, to my knowledge you can make holes. I’m not sure which is better – I used clamping because I thought it was less work and works as well. If you are making holes, perhaps you could try to search DiyElectricCar.com for “A123 pack building” methods – they are testing various methods there. I have also 10 A123 cells in testing right now and I’m planning on using simple 8 or 6 mm bolt-connection on this pack. This new pack will have about 300 cells so that will be quite a lot of work.
4) No, I did not measure temperature. I only saw an thermal camera picture manufacturer sent me. It did show very minor heating near positive cell tab.
5) I have not measured internal resistance and I have not obtained any thermal conductivity data.
Good luck for your efforts!
Henkka
By: randomev on April 18, 2012
at 12:07
Hi Henry,
Thanks a lot for the answers. I still have a few questions
1-By the centre wall I meant the face of cell( with the largest surface area). Is it fine if a copper or aluminium sheet is in contact with that face or that face has to be taped too using kapton tape?
2-What was the voltage of your battery box, max current drawn and average current drawn from it?
By: Saurabh on April 18, 2012
at 12:19
1) No, that large surface doesn’t conduct electricity so it does not need Kapton-tape and should be fine against aluminum or copper as long it can’t move and/or rub against metal.
2) My pack was only 22S so about 88V. I have momentarily taken about 400 A’s from that pack but average current tends to be around 100-150 A. Pack could withstand up to 350A continous and 700A peak but as I only have single Agni 95R as my motor, it doesn’t draw that much current.
By: randomev on April 18, 2012
at 12:37
Thanks a lot!!
By: Saurabh on April 18, 2012
at 14:10
Hi Henry,
Our cells have arrived and we are facing a problem with connection of cell tabs to busbars. So a few queries
1- What material are the cell tabs made of?
2- Can the cell tabs handle high currents if current doesn’t flow across the face of cell tab but along its surface? In this case the cross sectional area for current flow is very small.
3- We are planning to fold the cell tabs midway and bolt them at top.as shown here http://www.metricmind.com/audi/images/_0225_concept.jpg
http://www.metricmind.com/audi/images/_0286_tabs_bent.jpg
Would that be a good idea? We are skeptical about this because the current is flowing along the surface of cell tab and that could cause heating.
We would be glad if you could answer our questions
Best Regards
Saurabh Mishra
saurabh.mishra@iitbracing.org
By: Saurabh on May 13, 2012
at 19:11
Nice pack build. I, too am working on building up a pack with A123 pouch cells. (50 in series) I would be interested in looking at any CAD drawings you would be willing to share.
I’ve looked at many cell connecting options and I like the idea of not punching holes in the tabs and just using clamping. I have access to a 3-D printer as well as plenty of shop tools and CNC machine.
–
Eric
madisonhybridgroup@gmail.com
By: EV Powers on June 7, 2012
at 23:58